A Distinction of Style and Identity: Why All Bries Are Bloomy Rinds, But Not All Bloomy Rinds Are Brie

JUNE 20, 2025

When it comes to cheese lovers in Pagosa Springs, Colorado, few styles are as beloved and intriguing as bloomy rind cheeses—those soft, creamy cheeses with a white, velvety rind that seems to bloom like velvet on the outside. But a common point of curiosity is the statement: “All Bries are bloomy rinds, but not all bloomy rinds are Brie.” What does this mean, and why is it important? Let’s dive into this fascinating cheese story that blends science, tradition, and geography.

At its core, “bloomy rind” describes a cheese-making technique rather than a specific cheese name. It refers to the cultivated growth of white molds—mainly Penicillium camemberti and Geotrichum candidum—that create that soft, fluffy rind enveloping these cheeses. This mold surface ripening starts on the cheese’s exterior and melts inward, transforming a firm curd into the soft, luscious texture that cheese fans swoon over. The molds don't just add texture; they produce enzymes that break down protein and fat to develop rich buttery, nutty, and mushroomy flavors. This process is universal, so cheesemakers across the world—from France to California—can craft bloomy rind cheeses using the same basic technique.

Now, where does Brie come in? Brie is a name for a specific member of the bloomy rind family, but not just any bloomy rind cheese bears the true title of Brie. Authentic "Brie" refers to cheeses produced in a very particular region of France with centuries-old traditions and strict regulations—specifically Brie de Meaux and Brie de Melun. These cheeses carry the European PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) status, ensuring that every aspect of their production, from the raw milk to the size and aging process, adheres to detailed rules exclusive to the Brie region. For example, only raw cow’s milk can be used, and the cheeses are aged for less time than some other bloomy rinds. This legal and cultural protection preserves the unique flavors and identity derived from that region’s climate, grazing lands, and rich cheesemaking heritage.

In contrast, the name "Brie" without the PDO is generic, meaning cheesemakers worldwide—including those closer to home in the United States—can make "Brie-style" bloomy rind cheeses using pasteurized milk and different aging methods. These versions offer approachable, creamy cheeses that nod to traditional Brie but have their own distinctive character.

Exploring beyond Brie, the bloomy rind family is wonderfully diverse. Take Camembert de Normandie, for example—a cousin of Brie but a protected cheese with its own set of rules and a smaller, more intensely flavored profile. Then there are cheeses like Coulommiers and Brillat-Savarin, which showcase variations in size, cream content, and texture but don’t carry the same strict geographic protections.

Even locally and nationally, cheesemakers have embraced the bloomy rind style to create unique cheeses. American originals such as Humboldt Fog from California’s Cypress Grove—a tangy goat's milk cheese with a distinctive ash line—Harbison from Vermont’s Jasper Hill Farm wrapped in spruce bark, and Mt. Tam, a lush triple-creme cheese from Northern California, celebrate local ingredients and creative flair, proving this style’s versatility.

For residents and visitors in Pagosa Springs, these cheeses are more accessible than ever. You can find a variety of authentic and artisanal bloomy rind cheeses, including quality Bries and imaginative American versions, at Murray's Cheese within the City Market grocery store. Whether you're indulging in a classic Brie de Meaux or sampling a vibrant American bloomy rind, understanding the distinction between style and identity enriches the tasting experience.

So next time you savor a slice of Brie or another bloomy rind cheese, remember the story behind the rind: a harmonious blend of microbiology and tradition, geography and innovation. It’s a delicious reminder that cheese is not just food—it's culture and science melted into every bite.

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