The Pagosa Springs Terroir: A Confluence of Fire, Water, and Curd

JUNE 21, 2025

Nestled at over 7,000 feet in the San Juan Mountains, Pagosa Springs is a town where dramatic natural forces converge. The steaming depths of the world's deepest geothermal hot spring bubble alongside the fresh waters of the San Juan River, giving this region a unique mineral-rich environment. This mineral profile doesn’t just define the town’s famed healing waters identified by the Ute as “Pagosah” or “boiling waters”—it reaches far beyond to shape the grasses, livestock, and ultimately the fleeting yet lasting flavor of the local cheeses.

The volcanic past of the San Juan Mountains is the foundation of this exceptional terroir. Approximately 29 million years ago, colossal volcanic eruptions forged calderas whose residual heat still warms the Mother Spring today. Groundwater seeps deep beneath the earth, warming as it passes through mineral-rich volcanic rock before surfacing to nurture the springs and surrounding soils alike. This same mineral-laden water feeds the pastures that sustain local cattle, sheep, and goats. The grasses of these high-altitude meadows, growing atop soils formed by glacial till over volcanic bedrock, offer grazing animals a diverse and aromatic diet—from wild buckwheat and lupine to scrub oak and native grasses. It’s this diet, steeped in the legacy of the land’s fire and ice, that transfers through their milk to create cheese imbued with the essence of Pagosa Springs.

For centuries, humans have been drawn to this landscape. The Ute People, Colorado’s original mountain inhabitants, revered the hot springs for healing and cultivated sustainable food practices in harmony with the land. Their preservation techniques are echoed today by artisans who produce cheese as a form of nourishment and longevity, transforming seasonal milk into lasting treasures. Spanish settlers expanded the agricultural tradition with vast sheep and cattle ranches—Archuleta County, named after one such pioneer, was once home to one of the largest sheep herds in the West. Today, local farms are rekindling these traditions with pasture-based goat and sheep dairies that respect both the environment and heritage.

Modern artisan producers around Pagosa Springs carry this legacy forward amidst an evolving food culture. Farms like James Ranch in nearby Durango champion 100% grass-fed, raw milk cheesemaking, emphasizing the health of soil, grass, animals, and humans as one interconnected system. Goat dairies such as Laz Ewe 2 Bar bring creamy Nubian goat cheeses to local markets, connecting visitors and residents alike to the mountain’s unique flavors. The Pagosa Springs Farmers Market and specialty shops, including Pagosa Cheese Mongers, offer access to these local treasures, as well as imported cheeses that foster a global appreciation.

Dining experiences in town integrate these cheeses thoughtfully—from charcuterie boards at wine bars like Cork and Board to farm-to-table menus at Meander Riverside Eatery. The cheese is not simply a product; it’s an expression of Pagosa Springs’ landscape, history, and resilient spirit. Whether tasting a rich Belford from grass-fed Jersey cow milk or a tangy Nubian goat chèvre, you’re savoring an edible story forged by ancient volcanic fire, glacial cycles, and generations of care.

For visitors seeking the full Pagosa Springs terroir, the cheeses featured at Murray’s Cheese inside of the City Market grocery store provide a convenient and authentic taste of this remarkable mountain community. Each bite invites you to explore the confluence of fire, water, and curd that defines this one-of-a-kind region.

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