Wisconsin's Mediterranean Marvel: Sartori Rosemary and Olive Oil Asiago
This hand-rubbed Wisconsin cheese brings Italian tradition to America's Dairyland with aromatic herbs and rich olive oil that transform every bite into a Mediterranean escape.
Estimated Reading Time: 6 min
Imagine biting into a piece of aged cheese that instantly transports you from the Colorado Rockies to the rolling hills of Tuscany. That's exactly what happens when you taste Sartori's Rosemary and Olive Oil Asiago. This isn't your typical grocery store cheese. It's a carefully crafted "American Original" that honors Italian cheesemaking traditions while celebrating Wisconsin's dairy excellence. Each wheel is hand-rubbed with aromatic rosemary and premium Italian olive oil, creating a cheese that's as beautiful to look at as it is delicious to eat.
From Italian Roots to Wisconsin Excellence
The story begins in 1939 when Paolo Sartori, an Italian immigrant, founded his cheese company in Plymouth, Wisconsin. He chose this location for good reason: Wisconsin's limestone-rich caves provided the perfect environment to mimic the cool, humid maturation conditions of Italy's Veneto region. Today, four generations later, the Sartori family continues this tradition, working with local family farms within a 70-mile radius to source the highest quality milk.
While authentic Italian Asiago DOP must come from specific provinces in Northern Italy, Sartori's version represents an evolution of this classic cheese. It's classified as an "American Original" because it adapts traditional Italian methods to Wisconsin's unique terroir and regulatory framework. The result? A cheese that maintains the "familial flavor of its roots" while being distinctly American.
Pro Pairing Tip
Serve this cheese at room temperature for 30 minutes before eating. This allows the olive oil to soften slightly and the rosemary aromatics to fully bloom, creating the optimal tasting experience.
The Science Behind the Flavor
What makes this cheese so special starts with the milk. Sartori uses 100% pasteurized cow's milk from local Wisconsin family farms, each maintaining small herds of about 75 cows. This allows for exceptional quality control and ensures the milk is processed within hours of milking, preventing the development of off-flavors that can occur in aged cheeses.
The cheesemaking process involves several critical steps. First, the milk is pasteurized and inoculated with carefully selected cultures and microbial enzymes. The addition of lipase enzymes is particularly important, as these break down fats into free fatty acids during aging, creating the "pointed sharpness" and piquant aroma that balances the sweetness of Wisconsin milk.
After forming and pressing, the wheels undergo a minimum six-month aging process. During this time, they're moved through different environments: from the warm "overnight room" where initial fermentation occurs, to a brine bath that seasons the cheese and forms the protective rind, and finally to the curing room where the magic happens.
Terroir Tales
Wisconsin is the only state in the U.S. with a Master Cheesemaker program, modeled after rigorous European apprenticeship systems. Sartori employs several Master Cheesemakers, including Mike Matucheski, who is specifically certified in Parmesan and Asiago production. This level of expertise ensures that each wheel meets the highest artisanal standards.
The Art of Hand-Rubbing
The defining characteristic of this cheese is its hand-rubbed exterior. During the aging process, each wheel is carefully coated with a mixture of dried rosemary and premium Italian olive oil. This isn't just for show – the herbs and oil slowly penetrate the outer layers of the cheese, infusing it with Mediterranean flavors while creating an edible, herb-flecked rind.
The rosemary provides "piney and floral" notes, while the olive oil contributes "earthy richness" that complements the cheese's natural "nutty, fruity, and sweet cream" base flavors. As the cheese continues to age, these elements meld together, creating a complex flavor profile that evolves from mild and buttery to savory and sophisticated.
Texture and Appearance
This cheese offers a delightful textural experience. It's classified as "firm yet creamy," breaking cleanly when cut but dissolving into smoothness on the tongue. The interior paste is pale yellow with occasional white crystals – these aren't salt grains but calcium lactate crystals, a sign of high-quality, well-aged cheese that adds a pleasant textural contrast.
The exterior is where the visual appeal really shines. The herb-flecked rind, darkened with olive oil and studded with rosemary needles, creates an rustic, artisanal appearance that hints at the Mediterranean flavors within.
Ingredients
- Milk: 100% pasteurized cow's milk (rBST/rBGH-free)
- Rennet: Microbial enzymes (vegetarian-friendly)
- Cultures: Proprietary blend of Lactobacillus and Streptococcus
- Rub: Dried rosemary and Italian olive oil
- Allergens: Contains milk
Perfect Pairings for Every Occasion
This versatile cheese shines in numerous pairing scenarios. For wine lovers, try it with a buttery Chardonnay that mirrors the cheese's creamy finish, or a Chianti whose cherry notes provide beautiful contrast to the savory, nutty base. Beer enthusiasts will find that hoppy IPAs complement the rosemary's piney notes, while the carbonation cleanses the palate between bites.
On the cheese board, surround it with crusty artisan bread, salted almonds, and a selection of olives to reinforce the Mediterranean theme. Dried fruits like dates or figs provide sweet contrast to the herbaceous rind, while cured meats like prosciutto enhance the cheese's umami depth.
Pro Pairing Tip
For a simple but elegant appetizer, grate this cheese over warm focaccia or toss with pasta and roasted vegetables. The heat will slightly melt the cheese while releasing the aromatic oils from the rub.
In the Kitchen
While delicious on its own, this cheese is incredibly versatile in cooking applications. Grate it over minestrone soup, risotto, or pasta for an instant flavor upgrade. It adds gourmet appeal to gnocchi and works beautifully in grilled cheese sandwiches when you want to elevate a simple meal.
The key is to add it at the end of cooking or use gentle heat to preserve the delicate herb flavors and prevent the olive oil from becoming bitter.
Storage and Freshness
Proper storage is crucial for maintaining this cheese's quality. Keep it wrapped in cheese paper or parchment in the refrigerator, and bring to room temperature before serving. The olive oil rub makes this cheese slightly more perishable than dry-aged varieties, so consume within a week of opening.
Watch for signs of spoilage: while white crystals and herb browning are normal, any pink, black, or bright green fuzzy growth indicates the cheese should be discarded. A rancid smell (like old glue) or slimy texture also signals spoilage.
Terroir Tales
Sartori's Rosemary and Olive Oil Asiago has won numerous awards, including First Place at the 2019 Wisconsin State Fair and Grand Champion in 2010. The family crest on the packaging features a ship (representing the vessel that brought Paolo to America) and cows (honoring the local farmers who make their cheese possible).
Nutritional Profile
This cheese provides excellent nutritional value, with 7 grams of protein and 240mg of calcium (20% daily value) per one-ounce serving. The extensive fermentation process eliminates virtually all lactose, making it suitable for many lactose-sensitive individuals. At 9 grams of fat per serving, it's rich but not excessive when enjoyed in moderation.
Where to Find It
For Pagosa Springs residents and visitors, you can find Sartori Rosemary and Olive Oil Asiago at Murray's Cheese inside City Market. The knowledgeable staff can help you select the perfect wedge and provide additional pairing suggestions for your Colorado mountain dining experience.
The Pronunciation Guide
To order with confidence, remember: Sartori is pronounced "sar-TOR-ee" and Asiago is "ah-zee-AH-go" in standard American pronunciation, though the softer Italian "ah-ZHAH-go" is also acceptable.
This remarkable cheese represents the best of both worlds: Italian tradition and American innovation. Whether you're hosting a dinner party in Pagosa Springs or simply treating yourself to something special, Sartori's Rosemary and Olive Oil Asiago delivers a taste experience that's both familiar and exotic, comforting and sophisticated.
Sources and Further Reading
- Sartori Cheese Company - Official heritage and production information
- Wisconsin Cheese - Master Cheesemaker program details
- Culture Cheese Magazine - Professional cheese analysis and reviews
- Cheese Connoisseur - Italian cheese traditions and American adaptations
- SFGATE Food - Expert cheese tasting notes and comparisons
